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View Cart1.2mm Epoxy Vault — Full Coverage Protection. Most jigs get a clear coat. These get a measured 1.2mm shell sealed over the holographic foil, and it isn't thinned out to save cost. Reef structure, teeth, and a full season rattling around the jig bag don't take the flash off it.
UV-reactive foil on all colors. Not an accent on select patterns — every colorway in the line fluoresces under the blue-violet light that still reaches depth, which is where color disappears first. Glow comes on top of that on select patterns, for the deepest water and low light.
Field-tested. Deep Water jigs came back intact from charter sessions at Race Point, Provincetown — striped bass to 48 inches in 75 to 175 feet of water, finish and terminal hardware holding up through the whole run of over 20 fish.
Shimmer Drop — the action. A center-balanced body that levels out horizontally the moment the line goes slack, then flutters down in a tight, high-frequency shimmer. It holds that flat attitude in current instead of rolling over and diving, keeping the jig in the strike zone far longer than a nose-weighted profile.
Built for the fall. In deep water the vast majority of strikes come on the descent. The flattened, holographic sides catch what light reaches depth and throw it in every direction through the entire drop — reading like an injured baitfish rather than a lure on the end of a line.
Fished slow. Lift, pause, let it go. One sharp pitch of the rod sends the jig up and sideways; the pause does the work. No aggressive cadence required, and no fatigue over a long day on the rail.
Rigged and ready — properly. The nose stack runs molded loop → split ring → welded solid ring, with twin assist hooks matched to each weight bound to the solid ring — 4/0 at 150g, 5/0 at 250g. The split ring is rated 200–300 lb and the assist cords never touch its gap, which is where cheaper builds wear through. That's the full JDM terminal stack, assembled and ready to fish out of the sleeve: nothing to buy, nothing to re-rig.
Where to tie. Connect at the nose, never the tail. Clip your snap to the split ring and you're changing jigs in seconds. If you'd rather run a knot than a snap, tie straight to the solid ring — smooth, welded and gapless, it's the best knot surface on the jig, and your leader simply shares the ring with the assist cords. Strongest of all is a knot on the welded nose loop, which takes the split ring out of the load path entirely, though it's fiddly to thread and you give up quick jig changes. A barrel swivel on the split ring with your leader on the far eye also works and takes line twist out of long falls — rate the swivel at or above your leader, since it carries the whole load. What to avoid: knotting the leader onto the split ring itself, where the gap will chafe fluoro and mono under load.
Two sizes: 150g at 5½ inches and 250g at 6½ inches. For amberjack, grouper, snapper, and tuna.
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How to fish it. Lift, pause, let it go. One slow lift of the rod with a quarter to half turn of the handle sends the jig up and sideways; drop the tip and the pause does the work. No aggressive cadence, no brick-pulling, and no fatigue over a long day on the rail. Watch your line on every fall — that is where the bite comes.
